.1. Diamond Carat Weight

Diamonds are always measured in carat weight. One carat is the equivalent of 1/5 of a gram. Additionally, there are "100" points in a carat, so that a .50 "point" diamond would be described as a half-carat.

In general, the pricing structure for polished diamonds is directly related to the pricing structure for the diamonds in their rough state. Because there is a scarcity of large diamond rough, the price for these diamonds after polishing will be higher per carat. As you get larger in carat weight there will be an incremental jump in price even between two diamonds of same color and clarity. These plateaus are found approximately every .10-.15 points. Category examples are: .50-.59, .60-.69, .80-.89, .90-.99 carat, etc

2. Diamond Clarity

Diamond clarity is an indication of its purity. In all diamonds, except the most rare, diamond grades are determined by tiny traces of minerals, gasses, or other elements that were trapped inside during the crystallization process. The flaws that affect the diamond clarity and stop it from becoming a certified diamond are called inclusions. Virtually all natural diamonds that become certified diamonds contain identifying characteristics, yet many are invisible to the naked eye. Under the scrutiny of a jeweler's 10x-magnifying loupe or microscope and learned diamond education, natural phenomena -- called inclusions -- may be seen. These are nature's birthmarks that determine diamond grades, and they may look like tiny crystals, clouds, or feathers.

3. Diamond Color

Most people think all diamonds are colorless. In fact, diamonds come in every color of the rainbow. The diamond industry distinguishes between fancy colored diamonds and diamonds in the normal color range.

Fancy colored diamonds make up a small but exotic part of the diamond industry. These diamonds include red, blue, green and pink, as well as the stronger yellows. They also come in combinations such as orange/yellow or gray/blue. Red and green are the rarest fancy colors. These stones are expensive and quite rare. A fancy red one-carat stone can run up to $1,000,000, depending upon the beauty of the stone

Color Chart

Diamonds in the normal color range are graded by how closely they achieve absolute colorlessness. Most diamonds usually have a slight trace of yellow, brown or gray. In the late 1950s the Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A) developed a system using an alphabetical letter to indicate the depth of color in a diamond. G.I.A assigned D the best color. Colors range from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow).

 

 

To color grade a diamond the stone is compared to diamonds of known color. These stones are called masters. The highest master stone is an E. Any diamond better than the E master is a D. Each letter grade encompasses a range of colors rather than one specific color. There is no one exact color. For example, an H color diamond can be a good H, very close to the H master, or it can be a bad H, very close to the I master. As long as a diamond is between the H and I master stones, it is considered an H stone.

 

Actual Diamond Color

The difference between each master is minute. Mounted diamonds cannot be graded as consistently as loose stones. This is due to the light reflected from its mounting. Without master stones and a proper grading environment a loose diamond can only be approximated to within two grades. A mounted stone can only be approximated to within three or four grades.
Even experienced diamond graders have a difficult time distinguishing between any one color grade without the proper grading environment. When purchasing a diamond don't take any chances. Always make sure the stone is accompanied by a certificate from a leading laboratory such as E.G.L or G.I.A.

4. Diamond Cut

Nature is responsible for the cooler and the clarity of a diamond. The cut, that aspect that unlocks a diamond's hidden beauty, is the skill and craft of a talented diamond cutter.
Lacking an accepted industry wide standard for cut grading, as there are for clarity and cooler, HWL has developed a scale of cut grading as described below. In general terms this is what it means:

Excellent Cut (HW Grade 1 to 1+)
Diamonds cut to "ideal" proportions, as shown in the diagram. This cutting yields a diamond of maximum brilliance and beauty. A stone cut to these proportions will be considerably more expensive than a diamond of the same clarity and cooler but of poorer cut.

Good Cut (HW Grade 2 to 3)
Diamonds cut just outside the tolerances of the ideal cut.

Average Cut (HW Grade 4)
Diamonds cut to average proportions, with somewhat reduced brilliance and beauty to trained observer.

Commercial Cut (HW Grade 5 to 6)
Diamonds cut with reduced brilliance to the untrained eye, or significant retention of weight from the rough.

Irregular Cut (HW Grade 7 to 8)
Diamonds cut with distinctly reduced brilliance to the untrained eye, or significant retention of weight from the rough.

 

Below you can see how we place an "ideal" cut stone on our scale and also a fairly average "deep" stone. In general given the same weight (carat) the stone on the left will comand a premium in price, and exhibit more fire and brilliance.